11/11/12 7:30am - As I write this quick update I’m sitting
in Venice/Mestre railway station, one of two stations for Venice. This one is on the mainland while Venice/San Lucia is in Venice proper. I'm waiting to catch the train to Milan (scheduled
to leave at 10:02am) and there onto Naples. The reason for this quick update is
because of what is happening in Venice this morning. You may have heard of
Venice’s notorious floods which occur from time to time. These occur in winter
and are caused by the intersection of weather and tide. There was a flood in
Venice several weeks ago but this morning there is an even larger flood tide,
estimated to reach 1.2-1.3 meters above normal high tide. The owner of my hotel
let me know about this when I arrived so I planned on getting away early at
about 6:00am as the peak tide was predicted to occur at 8:30am. However, when I
got downstairs at 5:45am this morning there was already ankle deep water (6 inches
or so) outside the door. He night porter had fitted a metal barrier across the
door and a pump under the floor in the doorway was pumping water back out. The
owner had said this works so long as the flood is around 1 meter but anything
above that and water floods the hotel. The problem is that the water doesn’t
just come over the doorway it also comes up through the floor. This is because
Venice is built on a swamp – the buildings sit on wooden piles driven deep into
the ground to stop them from sinking, which they still are slowly doing – and
the ground is porous. So, when a flood tide occurs, the water comes up through
the soil and the floors as well as over land. Apparently, there’s nothing you
can do about it; you just have to accept that it will happen and deal with it.
You may have seen pictures of raised trestle walkways for people to get around
on – well, those are out this morning and I had to use them briefly to get to
the water bus stop to get out of Venice. The good news (?) is that by mid-day
the water should have returned to normal levels again and everyone can go about
business as usual after cleaning up. But to get out of the hotel I had to
borrow some boots from the night porter who then helped me carry my bags to dry
ground from where I could make my way (using the trestles as necessary) to the
dock. The two pictures below will give you some idea of what’s happened. The
first shows my hotel entrance in the distance (the Doni) with the water at more
or less normal levels; the second was taken this morning at about 6:00am from
the spot where I reached dry ground with the night porter and the water is
already about 6 inches deep.
Anyway, off to Naples shortly.
Doc
1:30pm-OK, I’m back blogging in real time. I’m on the train
from Milan to Naples and this thing is AMAZING. I thought the train from Venice
to Milan was something – it’s called the Frecciablanco and we hit about 200km/h
at times. But as I write this the train I’m on – the Frecciarossa_ is running at
283 km/h and still accelerating, according to my GPS. It has leather seats with
electronic recline, wi-fi if you want it, free drinks and snacks bought to your
seat, and the train leans as it goes round corners. WOW, now both the train and
my GPS confirm that we are doing 300 km/h – granted we are doing this on
dedicated high speed rail lines but hey, 300km is 300km. What is even more
incredible is that the French have a train that will do over 350 km/h and the
Italians have just announced they have a train that can reach 400 km/h and is
compatible with all high speed lines in Europe. This really is the way to
travel – you get to see the countryside, you can get up and walk around any
time you want, there’s a restaurant and bar in the next coach and real toilet
facilities with room to turn around. Sigh!!! Why oh why don’t we have this in
the US is beyond me.
Doc
The inside of the coach on today's train to Naples. I'm sitting the third seat back on the right. |
Update on the Venice flooding: I just checked the online news and the flooding today reach the sixth highest level on record at 1.49 meters, which floods about 70% of the city. There are some pretty dramatic pictures online if you surf around. Here's links to two site:
http://www.sacbee.com/2012/11/11/4977243/wind-whipped-rains-lift-venice.html
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/picturegalleries/worldnews/3538914/Venice-under-five-feet-of-water-as-the-city-suffers-its-worst-floods-in-22-years.html
I think I'm glad to have left when I did, although part of me says it would have been interesting to see.
http://www.sacbee.com/2012/11/11/4977243/wind-whipped-rains-lift-venice.html
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/picturegalleries/worldnews/3538914/Venice-under-five-feet-of-water-as-the-city-suffers-its-worst-floods-in-22-years.html
I think I'm glad to have left when I did, although part of me says it would have been interesting to see.
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